08 July 2006
.: Surf’s Up :.
I did it. Mark it off the 25 List!
I finally learned how to surf. And I rocked it. Not that I’m hitting the huge waves or anything but I held my own. And the best in my class ;) * sigh*
I’m sitting here in the airport terminal and I can still feel the waves that were beneath me this afternoon. An unfortunately calm day today though so the the ocean became a rocking chair lulling me into what must have been a peaceful dream.
Days before I was out surfing with my family and friends. I thought of the pride and excitement at seeing them ride a wave to shore. And the incredible rush I had when I first rode all the way to shore. I remember the heat of the sun and the coolness of the water. I remember seeing the palm trees ahead of me. I was too far from trees One and Two. If I were parallel to them, as Billy had suggested, perhaps I would have caught better waves.
Not this day. Many surfers were sitting up on their boards looking out to the oceans trying to spot a good one. Yet as I sat on my waiting for my wave I’d thought of how I’d be able to reflect back on this moment and how it will make me smile. I feel very lucky that I’ve been able to surf everyday since the day that I’d learned.
I should feel that sense of accomplishment and happiness every day. In every dance. In every massage. In anything I learn everyday. Or I guess I could remember these days and the rocking waves.
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